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Core Rules

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Championship Formula Racing is simulation of the highest levels of international open-wheel racing from the driver's perspective.

The Track

Each track in Championship Formula Racing is different Ė lending themselves to different strategies and car designs. Before we discuss car design and strategies lets describe how movement works.

Movement

Your carís speed determines how many spaces it will move this turn: 1 space per 20 mph. Donít worry about remembering that, it is written on your speed cards.

Cars can only move forwards Ė straight ahead or diagonally. In the examples below, green arrows point towards spaces that the blue car can move to. Red circles mark spaces that the blue car cannot move to.

A car cannot end its move in a space that another car occupies.

A car can move through a space that another car occupies, but only after successfully making a forced pass roll. (See rule clarifications later in this book.)

Speed

At the end of each turn you will have a speed card face down in front of you. This was your speed at the end of last turn.

From turn to turn you can change your speed based on 3 of your carís attributes: Acceleration, Deceleration, and Top Speed.

Remember that you can always got the same speed as last turn.

Increasing Your Speed: Acceleration and Top Speed

You can increase your speed by any amount up to your Acceleration. If your car went 100 mph last turn and you have an acceleration of 60, you can go as fast as 160 next turn. You can also go 120 or 140 as well.

You may not go faster than your top speed, even if your acceleration would otherwise allow it.

You can exceed your acceleration by 20 mph once per turn by rolling a test. If your acceleration is 40 and you pass the test roll you can increase your speed by up to 60 mph this turn. However you can damage your car if you fail the test. You can increase your top speed in the same way.

More about tests and die-rolls later.

Decreasing Your Speed: Deceleration

You can decrease your speed by any amount up to your Deceleration. If your car went 100 mph last turn and you have a deceleration of 40 you can slow to 60 or 80 next turn.

It is possible to slow down more than your deceleration by spending wear and/or testing your deceleration. Testing deceleration works in the same way that testing acceleration or top speed does. Using 1 wear allows you to slow down an additional 20 mph. Using 2 wear allows you to slow down an additional 40 mph. Testing and spending wear can be combined:

Exceed Deceleration by
20 mphSpend 1 Wear or Test Deceleration
40 mphSpend 1 Wear and Test Deceleration, or Spend 2 Wear
60 mphSpend 2 Wear and Test Deceleration
80+ mphSpend 2 Wear and Test Deceleration and Spin

You may never choose to decelerate 80+ mph but sometimes you are forced to.

It is also possible to slow down after you start to move using late braking. You must move at least one space before late braking. The cost to late brake is the same as exceeding deceleration. See rule clarifications at the end of this book for more information.

Slipstreams

When cars are going fast enough a trailing car can sometimes gain extra spaces from a slipstream. You may gain a slip if:

  • the car directly in front of you did not start the turn on a corner space
  • the car directly in front of you started this turn with a speed greater than or equal to your speed at the start of this turn
  • you were NOT going 0 mph at the end of last turn, and
  • no one else slipped the car directly in front of you earlier this turn

The number of spaces you can gain is based on the speed of the car directly in front of you at the beginning of their move. All spaces are optional.

  • 120 to 160 mph: 1 extra space
  • 180+ mph: 1 or 2 extra spaces

Corners

Corners are what keep you from going your top speed around the entire track. Corners are typically why you sometimes need to slow down and sometimes need to speed up.

A corner is defined as a group of contiguous spaces with yellow backgrounds and speeds printed on them.

Usually, the spaces in a corner will not line up. Consequently once you pick a lane for a corner you are usually stuck in that lane until you exit the corner. But that is not always the case.


Two Corners

One Corner

Not a Corner

Corner Speed Limits

Guidance

When a driver is uncertain what their options are, especially in corners, experienced drivers should lay out choices and the potential results (e.g., wear used, dice to be rolled, resulting track position).

The speeds in each corner space are limits that apply to any car that enters that space. You can exceed speed limits by spending wear and/or rolling a chance.

This payment occurs once per corner. For example: if I enter a corner through a 60 space at 80 mph, I can pay 1 wear to cover that cost. I am now free to continue moving through the corner without paying any more as long as my speed does not exceed 20 mph more than the speed limit of any space I enter.

If I enter a space inside the same corner that has a lower speed limit, I must supplement my payment for this corner to cover the difference. For example: if I enter a corner through a 60 space at 80 mph, I can pay 1 wear to cover that cost. If I then move into a different space in the same corner that has a speed limit of 40 I will now have to pay an additional wear or roll a chance. After paying that cost, I can now continue through the corner without paying any more as long as my speed does not exceed 40 mph more than the speed limit of any space I enter.

Exceed speed limits by:
20 mphSpend 1 Wear or Roll a Chance
40 mphSpend 2 wear, or Spend 1 Wear and Roll a Chance
60 mph Spend 2 Wear and Roll a Chance
80+ mphInto the Kitty Litter, Out of the Race

If you do not have enough wear to pay for a corner even if you roll a Chance, you automatically end up in the gravel beside the corner and are removed from the race. Unlike a crash that results from a chance roll, ending up in the kitty litter does not involve other cars.

Chances

A chance roll is one of the most risky. Green results mean that the chance was a success. A yellow result means that the car has spun out. A red result indicates that the car has crashed. See rules clarifications at the end of this book for more information.

Red Lines

Many corners have red lines running through them (you can see red lines in the example corners above). Some corners have more than one red line. These lines represent the ideal path through the corner. If your car follows the entire red line through a corner then the speed limit of spaces you enter are considered to be 20 mph faster then what is written on the track.

For example: if I follow a red line into a corner at 100 mph and enter that corner through a 60 space I would only need to pay 1 wear to cover that cost. By following the red line, I consider the speed limit of that space to be 80 mph instead of 60.

If a car leaves the line before its end, it must retroactively adjust its payment for the corner as if it had not used the line. If a chance roll is required due to leaving a line before it ends results in a spin or a crash, that result occurs in the last space that the car was still on the line.

Green Lines

Green lines work exactly like red lines except that spaces you enter while following a green line are considered to be 40 mph faster then what is written on the track.

Wear

Wear is a point pool that represents your tires. You start the race with an amount of wear based on your carís wear attribute times the number of laps that this race will run.

The main use for wear is to allow you to go faster in corners. It can also be used to slow down more than your deceleration or to late brake.

Changing Speeds in the Middle of a Corner

If you are in the middle of a corner at the beginning of a turn, you may not normally increase your speed. However, you MAY increase your speed if you can do so WITHOUT paying additional wear, rolling a chance, or automatically crashing for being 80+ over the speed of a corner space.

Corner Exit

Because speed limits only limit a car when the car enters a corner space, a car that ends its turn on the last space of a corner is no longer limited by the speed limits of that corner.

Overview of a Game Turn

Every turn in CFR has two phases. In the Planning phase everyone will secretly select a speed for their car. After everyone simultaneously reveals their speeds, the second phase begins.

In the Movement phase everyone moves their car. This is done in order starting with the current leader of the race.

Planning Phase

Every driver in CFR gets a deck of speed cards numbered 20 through 220 representing every possible speed that a car can go.

One of those cards will be face up on the table in front of you representing the speed your car went last turn. If you went 0 mph last turn or this is the first turn of the race there will not be a speed card face up in front of you.

During the planning phase, you will place a different speed card face down in front of you. If you want to go the same speed as last turn, you will play the ďMPSĒ card Ė which stands for maintain present speed.

If you plan to test an attribute this turn, the speed card you play face down should represent the speed that you hope to go if your test succeeds.

First Turn

Without testing, your first turn speed may not exceed your start speed. For your first turn, your acceleration does not limit your speed.

Your start speed can be tested in the same way as your acceleration, deceleration, and top speed.

On the first turn of the race, a car with a 100 start speed could not go faster than 100 mph without testing. Although you rarely want to you can go slower than your start speed on your first turn.

Rows

Spaces are considered to be in the same row when the front edge of the spaces line up.

In the example above, the spaces with the same color are in the same row as each other.

Move Phase

Cars in front move first. Among tied cars, the fastest car moves first. Among tied cars with the same new speed, the car closest to the grey bar on the side of the track moves first.

Winning

After a pre-determined number of laps, a car that ends their turn on the last space before the finish line (nose across the line) or any space after the finish line has finished the race.

The car that travels the farthest past the line that turn wins the race. Ties go to the car that ends the race closest to the grey bar on the side of the track.

Clean Up

After all players have moved, each player picks up any extra speed cards, leaving in front of them only the speed card representing the speed they finished the turn at.

Rolling Dice: Tests and Chances

There are a number of times when you can roll dice to push the limits of your car during the course of a race.

Tests

When you test you can exceed an attribute (acceleration, deceleration, top speed, or start speed) by 20 mph for this turn but you can damage your car for the rest of the race if you fail.

The result of a test is determined by the roll of two dice. Compare the total to the Die Roll Reference.

A green result means that the tested attribute gains 20 mph for this turn.

A red result means that the test was a failure and the tested attribute is usually reduced by 20 mph for the rest of the race (place a -20 damage marker on top of the attribute card).

Testing Acceleration and/or Top Speed

If you fail a test to increase your acceleration or top speed this turn, reduce your speed 20 mph from the speed you were attempting. For example if you were testing your 140 top speed by attempting to go 160, you would go 140 if you failed even though 140 would be above your new, damaged top speed of 120.

If this is the second time acceleration or top speed has been damaged this race, the carís engine blows up and the car is removed from the race.

If you are testing both acceleration and top speed on the same turn, test your acceleration first and then test your top speed if your acceleration test succeeds.

Testing Start Speed

A yellow result when testing start speed is a partial failure (mis-shift) reset speed to 20 mph less than your start speed. A start speed red result is a failure (stall) reset speed to 0 and treat your car as if you had spun this turn. Start speed is not damaged when a test fails.

Testing Deceleration

A red result means that you must pay 1 wear and your deceleration is reduced by 20 mph for the rest of the race (place a -20 damage marker on top of the attribute card). If the car does not have a wear to pay, it spins. See clarifications at the end of this book for more on spins.

If this is the second time that the carís deceleration was damaged, the brakes fail and the car is removed from the race.

Chance

A Chance is usually used to help pay for exceeding the speed limits in a corner. A Chance is one of the most dangerous rolls.

A yellow result means that the car spins. A spun car stops in the first space that required the chance roll and picks up their speed card as they are now going 0 mph.

A red result means that the car crashes and is out of the race. Take note of the row where the crash occurs. Cars that subsequently enter that row this turn can become involved in the crash. See clarifications at the end of this book for more on spins and crashes.

Skill

BEFORE you roll a test, chance or forced pass you can use skill to improve your chances. A carís skill attribute provides that driver with skill chips that can be used during the race. Before a die roll, you can use 1 green skill chip to reduce the result by 1 or 2 green skill chips to reduce the roll by 2. You may not use more than 2 skill chips before any one die roll.

Cars with more skill will also receive a fixed number of special red -3 chips as stated in the smaller note on the skill attribute card. Before a die roll you can use a red skill chip to reduce a die roll by 3. You may not use more than 1 red skill chip and you may not use a red skill chip in addition to any number of green skill chips. At any time you can exchange a red skill chip for 2 green skill chips.

Race Set-Up

Your First Race

Monaco is a good track for your first race because it is short, straight forward, and can reward a number of different strategies. A one lap race is recommended for your first race.

Track Selection

Select a track to race on and place that trackís board in the middle of the playing area.

Determine the Number of Laps

Each lap takes between 30 - 60 minutes depending on the number of cars and the experience of the drivers. A race can be any agreed length. Two to four laps are recommended to balance length of play with different possible strategies.

Hand Out Equipment

Each driver should grab the following:

  • a plastic car
  • a corresponding deck of car set-up cards
  • a deck of speed cards

Car Setup

The car set-up deck includes 4 cards for each of the 6 attributes. Each player privately picks one card for each attribute. The total of the set-up points shown on each selected cards should equal 2.

When all players are ready, reveal the setup cards for each car arranged so that everyone can easily see them. Place the unused setup cards face down next to you carís setup to show that carís color.

Every car then receives wear chips equal to their standard wear rating times the number of laps; green skill chips equal to their skill rating times the number of laps; and red skill chips equal to the note on their skill setup card. Remember to ignore the pitting wear numbers if you are not using the optional pitting rules.

Pole Bid

Bidding Rule of Thumb

For most tracks and situations my rule of thumb for rookies is to bid around twice the number of laps if they want to start in the front and to bid nothing if they want to start in the back.

With 6 or fewer drivers those numbers should be lowered a little.

Cars are assigned to the starting grid based on a secret and simultaneously bid using wear and/or skill. Each driver takes any amount of wear and skill chips into a hand and holds it out in front of them. When everyone is ready, all bids are revealed.

One skill equals 1/2 wear. Break ties with the roll of two dice. Skill cannot be used to modify a tie-breaker. (This is the only time that skill cannot be used to modify a die roll.)

Cars are placed on the start grid in order of pole bid: highest bid in the 1st spot, right behind the start line on the grey side of the track. See examples below for the position of all cars on the grid depending on the number of cars in the field.

Race Stewards

Having a race steward is not required, but can help keep things moving especially when there are a lot of drivers. Usually, the most experienced player is assigned the role of race steward. The race steward should prompt everyone to start the planning phase, check to see when everyone is done planning, and when it is someoneís turn to move. They can also help people with their moves and the rules, and adjudicate any disagreements.

Clarifications

Forced Passing

During a forced pass attempt, the car that is moving through the blocked space is called the attacker and the car that currently occupies that space is called the defender. Before the attacker rolls dice, the defender has to decide whether they are going to block the pass attempt. If the defender is currently going 0 mph (possibly because of a spin) then the defender cannot block. Blocking makes the die roll more difficult but also introduces the possibility that the cars could collide and lose wear.

After the defender decides to block or not, the attacker must decide how much if any skill to apply to this die roll and then make the roll.

A green result means that the car has moved through the occupied space and may continue moving if possible.

A red result means that the attacker must stop in the last space it occupied prior to the forced pass attempt. The attacker is done moving this turn. The attacker must now reduce its current speed to reflect the number of spaces it did move this turn. If the attacker moved 3 spaces before attempting a forced pass, the attacker must reduce its speed to 60. This will require late braking.

If the attacker used spaces gained from a slip in order to make a pass possible, the attacker will need to slow to a speed minus the spaces it gained from the slip. For example, if the attacker moved 5 spaces before the pass attempt, but took 1 slip as part of its attempted move, then the attacker would have to slow to 80 (4 spaces plus the 1 slip space).

If the defender chose to block, there is the possibility that there will be contact between the cars. After the result is determined, look at each of the two dice rolled. For every ď3Ē showing on these two dice, the defender losses a wear. For every ď4Ē showing on these two dice, the attacker losses a wear. This penalty occurs regardless of the result of the pass.

If a car cannot pay wear after a forced pass, that car spins.

Forced Passing in a Corner

The attacker in a forced pass may not use a racing line through a corner. A defender that is using a racing line may continue to use the racing line regardless of whether a block was declared.

Unless the forced pass is a success the attacker in a forced pass does not enter the space that the defender occupies, or any of the spaces after. From a timing perspective, a driver must deal with any corner spaces he enters before a forced pass first, then deal with the forced pass, then deal with the space the defender occupies and any spaces after that.

In the example below on the left, the yellow car is going 120 and has 3 spaces left to move this turn. If yellow decides to take the 60s for 2 wear and a chance, yellow would pay that cost first before worrying about forced passing red. If yellow crashes or spins, that happens in the space behind red and there would be no forced pass this turn.

In the example above on the right, the yellow car is going 100 this turn and has two more spaces left in its move. Yellow decides that it wants to forced pass red through the 40 space that red is currently sitting on. Since the forced pass happens in the first space of the corner, yellow will attempt the forced pass before dealing with the corner. If yellow succeeds with the pass, then yellow would have to pay 2 wear and roll on the chance table to take the corner at 100 through the 40 space. If yellow fails at the pass, then yellow will not have to pay wear or roll a chance for the corner.

If yellow succeeds at the forced pass but then crashes, red is NOT affected by the crash and does not have to roll crash avoidance. If yellow succeeds at the forced pass but then spins, yellow would be placed on the 60 space besides red. The general rule is that the spun car in this situation is placed in any empty space in the same row. If there are no unoccupied spaces in that row, move the attacker back another row until an empty space is found (preferably one that the attacker moved through). If there was another car in the 60 spaces next to Red, Yellow would spin into the first 60 space in that outside lane.

Consecutive Forced Passes

Although very unlikely to occur, it is possible to make multiple forced pass attempts on the same move. That can lead to a situation where the last space a car occupied prior to a failed forced pass attempt is occupied by another car. If that occurs, place the attacker in any empty space in the same row. If there are no unoccupied spaces in that row, move the attacker back another row until an empty space is found (preferably one that the attacker moved through) and reduce the attackers speed another 20 mph for every additional row moved. See late braking for instructions on slowing down in the middle of a move.

Late Braking

After a car moves at least one space it may late brake. Late braking is a way to slow down after a car starts moving. This can be done for tactical reasons or it can be forced on a driver if the track ahead is blocked. If you plan to late brake during this turn, you should play a face down card based on the speed that you will start your turn Ė before the planned late braking event.

Late braking is similar to exceeding your deceleration. You may spend up to 2 wear to late brake by 20 mph per wear spent. You can also late brake with dice as if testing your deceleration. You can also combine those options. For example: you could spend 2 wear and roll dice in order to late brake by 60 mph.

This gets a little more complicated if you exceeded your deceleration at the start of this move.

Late Braking After Exceeding Deceleration

If you exceed your deceleration at the beginning of a move, it impacts your choices later in the move if you chose to late brake.

If you rolled dice to exceed deceleration at the beginning of the turn, you cannot roll dice to late brake later during the same move.

If you spent any wear to exceed deceleration at the start of this turn that reduces how much wear you can spend to late brake. If you spent 1 wear to exceed deceleration at the start of the turn, then you can only spend 1 wear to late bake that same turn. If you already spent 2 wear to exceed your deceleration this turn, you may not spend wear to late brake.

Late Braking After Entering a Corner

If a car late brakes after entering a corner they may lose some or all of the advantage they may have bought with wear or skill earlier in the corner. To determine how fast the car can go in the same corner next turn, pretend that the car entered the corner at its new speed, after the late brake.

It is usually better to late brake before entering a corner but this situation can some up if a car fails a forced pass in a corner and has to late brake inside the corner.

Slipstreams and Speed

Spaces gained from a slip do not change the speed of the car. This is especially important if a car carries a slip into a corner Ė which is legal.

One Car Slipstreaming Two & Two Cars Slipping One

There are times when a car could slip either of two different cars. On the right you can see that the silver/black car could slip either the blue car or the red car as he exits the Club corner in the modern configuration of Silverstone. The silver/black car can make that decision when it is their turn to move.

Spins

A spun car stops in the first space that required the chance roll or the space it was in when otherwise forced to spin. Change its current speed is to 0 by picking up all speed cards in front of the carís set-up. A spin can also be indicated by turning the spun car backwards on the track. A car that stalls on the grid is considered to have spun.

Next turn, the spun car will plot the slower of its acceleration and start speed and may not test these attributes. For example, a spun car with an acceleration of 40 and a start speed of 60 would go 40 next turn Ė the lower of those two attributes. The car can only go slower than this if the corner spaces it navigates requires it to do so.

A spun car will also move last among cars in its row regardless of their speeds and track position.

A spun car may not block a forced pass attempt.

A spun car may not continue to use a racing line it spun on but may use any upcoming racing lines, even in the same corner. A spun car may not exceed the speed of the corner it spun in.

Crashes

Note the space the crash occurred in and place the car upside-down and next to the track. This car is out of the race. For the remainder of this turn if any other cars reach or pass the row that this crash occurred in, they may become involved in the crash.

Crash Involvement

When a car does reach or pass that row, it must roll a chance with the following modifiers in addition to any skill they spend on that roll.

  • If the carís move would be completed 0-2 spaces past the crash row subtract 2 from the chance roll, otherwise subtract 1 from the chance roll.
  • If the crash row is a three-wide section of track subtract an additional 1 from the chance roll.

Any spins or crashes that might occur as a result of this chance roll take place in the first space where that car reached or passed the crash row.

If a car reaches or passes more than one crash, it will have to roll a chance to avoid each one separately.

Planning Errors

If a driver is attempting to go a speed higher than they can achieve even if they test their acceleration and/or top speed, their speed should be reduced to the highest speed they could reach if they successfully test their acceleration and/or top speed.

If a driver somehow did not play a face down card representing their speed for this turn, consult the historical driver rules and assign the car the speed for zero wear as if the car were a historical driver for this turn. Every effort should be taken to prevent this from happening.

Intentional Spins

A car may not choose to decelerate more than they can pay for. If a car is forced to decelerate more than it can pay for because it is blocked or failed a forced pass, the car spins automatically.

Race Finish, Spins, and Crashes

Cars that crash the turn they finish the race are considered to have not finished the race. Cars that spin the turn they finish the race are considered to have finished last among other cars that finished the race that turn.

If cars enter a corner after finishing the race, they must deal with the speed of that corner as they normally would.

On the right, we see a dramatic race finish at Silverstone. The red car finishes first. The silver/black and green/yellow cars have their nose on the line. Silver/black is closer to the grey shaded side of the track and so finishes 2nd. Green/yellow gets 3rd. The blue car went farther past the line but spun and will finish 4th. The black/red car in the back did not finish the race this turn.

What if I break my engine close to the end of the race?

If a car suffers engine failure (damaging the top speed or acceleration after having damaged either the top speed or acceleration previously this race) within sight of the start-finish line, the car is not immediately removed from the track but is instead given a speed equal to half their speed after failing the test (round down) and then moved. If the car crosses the finish line this turn then it is considered to have finished the race. Otherwise, the car is removed from the track.

Strategy

Splitting a Race into Thirds

The strategy hints below mention splitting races into thirds. For a 3 lap race, thatís easy: 1 lap is 1/3 of a race. For other numbers of laps, note that the stop watch symbols next to the track split each lap into thirds. For a 4 lap race, passing your 4th stop watch will signal the beginning of the second third of your race.

Broad strategic choices in CFR revolve around when you spend your wear. Do you spend wear evenly and efficiently though out the race, do you spend more wear early to gain a lead (race from the front), or do you save wear for a charge later in the race (race from the back)?

For your first race, pick a strategy that sounds fun to you. As you become more familiar with the game you will notice that some tracks lend themselves more to one strategy or another. You will also notice that every strategy tends to work better when lots of other drivers arenít trying to do exactly the same thing you are.

Your pole bid and where you end up on the starting grid is also an important factor in your success. If your strategy is to spend wear early and race from the front, you probably want to bid enough to be on pole or near the front of the starting grid. But if you bid too much it may be too easy for the drivers behind you to catch up. If you bid too little you could end up with too many people ahead of you on the grid for your planned strategy to work.

Below are some pre-built cars for three generic strategies and some thoughts on driving them.

Strategy Acceleration Deceleration Top Speed Start Speed Wear Skill
Race from the Front 40 40 140 100 8 3
+1, -3 skill

You will want to bid roughly twice the number of laps you are racing or a little more. Ideally you want to win pole. Look around at the other car set-ups: other cars with 100 start speeds are also likely to try to win the pole bid. Primarily use skill for the bid, but save 2, -1 chips to push your start speed on your first turn. You may have to use some wear for your pole bid in addition to skill.

During the first third of the race, you want to spend wear to go as fast as possible. Try not to spend wear in two corners on the same turn, but do spend extra if it gets you through a corner before a straight. Budget half of your total wear for this first part of the race. If all went well, you will spend the rest of the race trying to stay in the lead you have built.

Race from the Middle 60 60 160 60 7 2
0, -3 skill

You will want to bid roughly the number of laps you are racing. Your goal is to be in the middle of the starting grid. Primarily use skill for the bid. Maybe just use skill, saving all your wear for the race.

Split up your wear into three even piles. Try to spend 1 pile of wear in each third of the race. You want to be very efficient. If you know you will be stuck in the same corner two turns in a row, it might be a good time to spend 2 wear for maximum effect.

Race from the Back 80 80 180 20 5 2
0, -3 skill

Go ahead and bid nothing for pole. You donít really care. If you think lots of people are going to bid nothing (they probably also have a 20 start speed) and you donít want to start dead last, bid some of your skill but do not bid any wear.

Spend the first third of the race trying hard not to spend any wear at all. Use your 80 acceleration and 80 deceleration to go as fast as you can between corners without having to spend wear in corners. Then split your wear into two piles and spend one pile during the middle third of the race and the rest during the last third of the race. Use your high top speed and maybe even push that top speed to pass slower cars in the straights.

Optional Set-Up Rules

Classic Era Cars

If you want to simulate racing from the 50ís and 60ís, remove all 2 value set-up cards (except skill) and build a car that has 0 total set-up points. Aerodynamics started to impact open wheel racing in the 1970ís increasing their ability to accelerate, decelerate, and take corners faster.

Handicaps

If you want to provide newer drivers with a more competitive experience, you can reduce the amount of build points that more experienced drivers use during set-up to 1 or 0.

Knock Out Qualifying Bid

A properly calibrated pole bid can be key to victory. Especially with larger fields, a two-part bid can provide more suspense and some hints for drivers hoping to be on pole.

After an initial blind pole bid, the bottom half of bids (rounding down) are placed on the grid as normal. The top half (rounding up) keep the skill and wear bid in round one in front of them and then participate in a second blind bid. The amount bid in both parts are added together before placing the top half of the field on the starting grid.

Pitting Rules (optional)

In addition to being able to pit for additional wear, cars also get a choice of different tire compounds.

Soft tires let drivers spend a wear instead of testing acceleration, deceleration, or start speed, or instead of rolling a chance. So, cars on soft tires can spend 3 wear in a single corner but not 3 wear and a chance.

Hard tires gain wear as the race progresses. Every time that a car on hard tires crosses the start/finish line without pitting, they gain wear equal to their carís hard tire bonus. Note that hard tires do not grant bonus wear when carís cross the start line at the start of the race or when they cross the finish line at the end of a race.

Set-Up

  • When building your car, use the pitting wear rating instead of the standard wear rating.
  • Give each driver a double-sided tire marker. These are used to indicate which tire the car is currently using: Hard or Soft.
  • Give each driver a pit marker, these are used to note how long a car has been in the pits.

Pole Bid

Before making their pole bid, every driver places their tire token on one side indicating their desired starting tire. The token can be placed under their wear card. After the bid, place the tire marker that you selected next to your remaining wear on your wear card.

Pitting

Cars may pit at the end of any lap to reset their wear to their starting total but each stop in the pits takes 2 turns to complete.

Entering the Pit

pit lane is an orange lane of spaces that extends from the last space of the last corner of the track some length down the trackís front straight. The pit lane can only be used by a car that is pitting.

When a car ends its move in any part of a row that contains a pit space, the car may enter the pit. These rows are marked by small orange arrows on the track pointing toward the pit lane. The car does not need to be in a space adjacent to the pit spaces, just anywhere in that same row. For example, the blue-red car on the right can enter the pit from where it is.

When a car enters the pits it is immediately moved to the orange pit lane after it has concluded its move and before any other cars move this turn. Note that the car does not change its speed and that there is no penalty for entering the pits on the same turn as a spin.

We see that the blue-red car has decided that he is pitting this turn and has been moved next to the silver-black car that was in the pits at the start of this turn.

Any number of cars can exist in the same pit space at a time. When a new car enters a pit space that already has a car in it, the new car is placed further away from the track to preserve the order in which the cars arrived in the pits.

Move Cars on Track Before Pitted Cars

After all cars that started this turn on the track have moved, cars in the pit move. Cars that were in the pit at the beginning of this turn will have a pit turn marker underneath them. Cars that just entered the pits this turn will not. Cars in the pits act in the order they arrived in the pits.

Exiting the Pits

First we deal with any cars whose marker is on the yellow, exit -1 side. These cars are exiting the pits. Remove the pit turn marker from under the car and move the car onto the track to an empty space closest to the grey side of the track.

To the right we see that the white-blue car is ready to exit the pits. The car started this turn in the pits with the yellow, exit -1 marker under it. Earlier this turn the red-yellow car moved to the same row but did not enter the pits. So as the white-blue car is exiting the pits, the closest empty space to the grey side of the track is the middle space in this lane.

Since this happens after all cars on track have moved, the white-blue car does not move this turn. Next turn, however, will be a regular turn for this car. Remember that the carís current speed is the same as when it entered the pit. If the car spun the turn it entered the pit, then the same rules apply to it as any other car the turn after a spin.

In the unlikely event that all of the spaces in the row are full, the white-blue car is placed next to the car in the space furthest from the grey side of the track as shown to the right. For this turn only, both the silver-black and white-blue cars are considered to occupy that same space.

Changing Tires

After all cars that should exit the pit have done so, any car in the pit with a pit turn marker on the red, exit -2 side gets new tires.

Cars getting new tires select what type of tire they will be exiting the pit with and gain wear equal to their starting wear total (pre-pole bid) and reset tire marker to reflect the carís current tire.

After gaining new wear, the pit turn marker under that car should be flipped over to the exit -1 side. This car will move back onto the track next turn.

Just Entering the Pits

Finally, any car that just entered the pits this turn will not have a pit turn marker under them. Place one with the exit -2 side up under each of them.

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